As part of a trip to Yosemite for a wedding (with the rest of the trip to be written up next), I took the opportunity to go on a two night overnight backpack, since it seemed a waste to go all the way to Yosemite without having some time to enjoy it. I scheduled my research proposals exam to be a week and a half later, such that I was able to turn in my props just before leaving, but would have enough time to worry about them when I got back.
For this trip, I started in Yosemite Valley at Happy Isles, and took the John Muir Trail up to Nevada Falls. From there I continued to Little Yosemite Valley, and beyond to Sunset Creek, where I camped the first night. I made an unsuccessful effort after pitching my camp to go summit Half Dome, but was defeated by sunset. The next day I left my camp as it was, and did a loop trip up to Clouds Rest – an amazing viewpoint 5900′ above the Valley floor (and 1100′ higher than Half Dome, only enhancing the view). From there I continued north on the trail towards Tenaya Lake and the Tioga Road, turning off to rejoin the JMT and loop back to my campsite. After another evening there, I packed up and heading back to the Valley..with some pretty chewed up feet! Total for three days was about 26 miles, and 5900′ of overall gain, though there was more climbing than that.
Taking a load off on the way back down.
I had camped the night before, and early the morning of the 15th took my car over to the backpackers lot at the beginning of the High Sierra Loop/JMT, and headed on out. From Happy Isles to Vernal Falls is the annoying steep paved part, but it worked out ok, and I took a short break at the Vernal Falls bridge. From there I headed up the JMT rather than the Mist Trail (which I have still never done).
There are a few places listed on the trailhead sign I guess
I chose to stop again at Clark Point which was just as lovely as it was in the winter, and perhaps a bit less terrifying. From there, I continued on to the top of Nevada Falls, just moving up along the JMT. There were some pretty good views of Nevada Falls (and, of course, of Half Dome throughout this whole endeavor) as I headed up. Getting to the bridge near the top of the falls was pretty cool in its own right, since there is an awesome rocky area up there, and a bunch of people swimming in some pools (warned against!) and if you go a bit further, a bathroom 🙂
Half Dome, Mt. Broderick, and Liberty Cap, and Nevada Fall peeking out, from L to R.
Better able to see Nevada Falls at that point
After that the trail switchbacks a little bit then heads into Little Yosemite Valley, and I went past the campground there (where I was not staying) and then there were some more switchbacks. I then passed the turnoff to go up to Half Dome, and continued on the JMT to Sunrise Creek, where I set up camp. I rested for a bit (checking out some very well camouflaged grouse while there!), then headed back to Half Dome, and went up the turnoff this time. I went up that trail for a while (passing a deer) and made it to SubDome (ie, just before heading up the cables to Half Dome itself) to find it basically deserted and very shortly before sunset.
Personal campsite
Find a grouse!
The bit up to Sub Dome itself was a fair bit of a scramble, and being up there by myself , that close to dark, and already being nervous about the way up to the top, I decided to just enjoy Sub Dome being basically empty, took some pictures there, and went back to camp. I wasn’t super hungry, but I made myself eat a bit anyway, joined with some nearby folks for a little bit of company, and then went to bed (after more or less getting lost walking back from the next campsite over – the woods can be scary at night!)
The landscape makes for some cool shadows
The cables were not calling to me
The next morning I got up and headed further in. At Sunrise Creek, where I camped, there is a fork in the trail, with the JMT heading slightly eastward on the right fork, and the leftwards for heading up to Clouds Rest. I took the left fork, and started what would be the most solitary part of my hike. Between there and Clouds Rest, I saw only one or two sets of people. This section of trail is pretty innocuous, switchbacking through the forest. At one point, however, I heard some noise from off to my left. Not bird or squirrel sound, some sort of large mammal moving around.
I was headed…up there.
At first I was thinking this is maybe a deer, but I don’t see anything, so I keep moving along the trail. Maybe 50 feet further I hear another noise, now behind me, and I turn around to look…and just coming out of the brush on what had been my *right* was A BEAR. With a twig stuck behind her ear, she had clearly been rooting around. But she was on the opposite side of the trail where I had heard noises…did she have cubs??? Anyway, I looked at her, she looked at me, and my heart about stopped. While absolutely terrified, I started walking away slowly and carefully. I knew if she *was* angry or wanted to hurt me, there wasn’t much I could do, but being calm is the right thing to do, or so I’m told. Brown bears are normally fairly mellow. Another 50-100 feet further, I turned around and snapped a very very quick photo, then just kept walking. After getting out of sight, well, I ran a bit, then caught my breath. Wow.
Bear. right in the middle.
After that, I kept going for a bit, eventually breaking out to some great new views of Half Dome, and then starting to see some really cool rock formations above me, finally arriving at Clouds Rest, which first presented itself as a large rock castle looking thing above me. Wending my way through the rocks, I finally got to the top of Clouds Rest where I found both absolutely jaw dropping views, and several other people, who had made their way down from Tenaya Lake.
Half Dome and Yosemite Valley behind me.
View of Tenaya Lake and high country beyond
I hung out at the top a bit (again, wow, views) and talked with this guy Frederic a while, who took a pretty good photo for me. I then continued north off of the location. This first bit had a reasonable amount of other people , as they went back to Tioga Road. I was already pretty tired, and my feet were starting to get pretty beat up (stupid boots), so I really enjoyed the walk down the fabulous ridge on the north side of Clouds Rest (really, truly, spectacular), and then the walk through the forest with some very very tall trees, and then got to the point where I turned off this main trail onto the Forsyth Trail, and took a break for a while.
Looking down, and then looking back up the ride to Clouds Rest
I continued on the Forsyth trail another mile or change to where it met up with the JMT, and took a break again. My feet were starting to be pretty dire, I’ll admit. While I was sitting there, a couple of gentleman walked down the trail, and I ended up joining up with them to walk back to Sunset Creek. I was pretty sore, but having companions helped me keep to a pace.
The next morning I packed up, gaped at the blisters on my heels, and set out, gingerly. I made it back to Little
Yosemite easily, took some photos near there, and then again took a nice break at the top of Nevada Falls. There were some pretty awesome trees growing out of this crack in a rock – life is always tenacious. I kept heading down the trail, basically at the point where I was hobbling. when I got back to Happy Isles, I sat for a bit and talked with a ranger who was handing out bandanas, which was a nice conversation. I then further hobbled back to my car…SUCCESS.
A tree’s gotta do what a tree’s gotta do, right?
I then drove over to housekeeping camp, where even walking around in my sandals hurt, and took some photos of my
blisters. oh my! You could see each day of blister growth in concentric skin rings that had pulled up I then walked around that evening, left a note for Jeff at the Ahwahnee, stuck my feet into the Merced, read a book, talked to some random people, got terrified by a raccoon getting into my bag. A good evening 🙂
Winning!!
